PARIS PERFUME WEEK 2026 THE BIG RECAP (PART 2)
Attention worthy releases and more
This year was the third edition of the show that was once very cosy and intimate but not this year. Earlier editions were such a treat for fragrance enthusiasts, exposees and business partners that NEZ must have been overthrown by requests to make it bigger. Rightfully so.
2026 was bigger but not necessarily better in terms of organisation aspects. But those minor issues were completely overshadowed by the array of wonderful people behind the stands.
Here are our highlights of the brands and new releases that deserve your attention. Part 1 of the recap is here and part 3 is coming.
A wild strawberry haven. It’s first time I’ve tried it and being well versed in Superfumista collection Fraise Couture was a big surprise to my nose. Milky strawberry that smells authentic and not synthetic. Mixed with musky floral notes, it’s utterly perfect for spring and summer. A gourmand without being obnoxiously sweet nor headache inducing as strawberry often tends to be. There is a soft greenness to the composition as well. Beautifully done!
One of the new discoveries for me, a brand coming from China called Scent Chant. It had very interesting transparant fragrances that came in stunning presentations carrying the price tag of 50 euros for 50 ml EDP.
Upon first impression, I thoroughly enjoyed the Iris Gris, Fumed tea and Sparkler. Out of the three I ended up purchasing the Sparkler, ode to jasmine and orange blossom with warm spicy drydown.
Pothos is an ode to honeysuckle which does not generate any essential oil yet carries the sweet intoxicating scent familiar to many. I love how Angelos was able to showcase the honeysuckle in a totally different way. Its green and crunchy facet is melting into soft pillowy musky-woody base. I can detect heavenly sandalwood in there, making this take on honeysuckle rather woody, when normally we see that flower as part of green and aromatic floral compositions.
Speaking about surprises at this year’s show. TOBBA have brought one of the most intoxicating silky smooth tuberoses. The nuttiness in it is mesmerising, it cuts through the gourmand bubble-gummy tuberose with its creamy knife, leaving my skin with this extraordinary sexy deep dark scent. Created by Maxime Exler, Asura is as intriguing as it is seductive in its trail. Instantly this will become brand’s bestseller this year.
ATELIER MATERI BLACK OREGANO
I was going to the booth with one goal, to try new release Tonka Kumaru, centered around tonka bean. One of my favourite notes out there. Unfortunately this release felt very flat and soulless, however the day was saved by Black Oregano extrait. I finally was able to wear it on the skin and it’s short of a masterpiece. Lime, rosemary, fresh oregano and cardamom paired with tanned leather. What a beauty!
Verdant and sappy, this ode to green garden shadows is simply breathtaking. It’s very refreshing to see such compositions emerge in era of gourmands and ambers that are nothing but duffocating at this point. Umbra Veris is a fresh breath of dewy jasmine air. Feisty and green, with floral bite to it, m-mm-mmm… J’Adore what Alexandre Makhloufi has created!
Another hidden gem within the small pop-up store at Notes Shanghai X Fragrance de l’Opera carrying the Chinese perfume brands through the month of April. Mo Maek collection of fragrances was very interesting, ranging from warm skin musks to transparant florals with very vivid animalic edge. At the end of testing them all, I opted for the bamboo and tea heavy Dried Tangerine Peel & Osmanthus fragrance. I regret not picking up more scents to play with, but considering my budget was limited, I left few bottles for the next year.
Chinese answer to haute perfumery and then some. Distillations, eaux de parfums of Proust collection, textile spray, extraits de parfums in oil form, such as Ophelia have blown our minds.
It’s been a real treat that team took their time explaining their materials and unique sourcing to all of their visitors. A brand that left us speechless. Crowd favourite seemed to be Passion Chypre and El Libro de Arena.
And they did it again! The little bubbly teasers on Instagram were so cute so I had my expectations set on the new release to be more of a laundry-bubbly clean spring floral profile. Imagine my surprise when I was handed a blotter under my nose smelling like cheerful childhood, rich in aroma of wild strawberries with sour cream that I used to indulge in every summer when I was just a little girl.
Luisant Haze is not your average take on the gourmand genre. It’s really cute with very obvious potential to have huge public appeal. There is class and sophistication present that most gourmand fragrances lack these days. Again and again TDM brand releases emotion-evoking fragrances.
Thank you for reading, hope you enjoyed this quick sum up of the new releases. Part 1 of the recap can be found here and part 3 is coming.
